Fiber Star Originals

Silky Soft Scarf

2008-11-17T09:44:00.000-08:00

A stash busting pattern
by Samantha Stopple Copyright 2008

This pattern is also available as a pdf download on Ravelry!

Example was made with Frog Tree Pima Cotton Silk and a J / 6.0 mm Hook
Approx. 58” Long and 3” Wide
Gauge: 12 rows in 2” / 4 - (sc, ch1) in 2”
I did 17 rows for my scarf

Notes [Read before starting the pattern]

Note links in this online version. You will find information nthat might be helpful if you are new to crochet.

The foundation chain and first row are the same color yarn.

You do not turn your work. You join at the beginning of each row and fasten off at the end of each row. The right side of the scarf is always facing you.

Leave longish tails at the beginning and end of each row, which will become part of the fringe. No ends to weave in!

To get the look of this scarf you need to do this even if you do this in one color.

Materials:
Any yarn that you have on hand
If you want the scarf to be drapey go up 2 or more hooks sizes than the hook or needle size suggested on the ball band. If you crochet loosely you might not need to, if you crochet tightly like me you do!

The pattern: The granite stitch a multiple of 2 stitches

Foundation Row: Chain to a length that looks good to you and add a few more chains just in case. Then w/o fastening off proceed to Row 1

Row 1: (sc, ch1) in the 2nd ch from the hook [skip the next ch (sc, ch1) in the next ch] across, skip one more ch then end with a sc when the length looks right to you. (Pick out any extra chains not needed.)

Row 2: sc in the first sc, [(sc, ch1) in the ch1 space of the previous row] across, ending with a sc in the last ch1 space and a sc in the last sc.

Row 3: (sc, ch1) in the first sc, [(sc, ch1) in the ch1 space of the previous row] across, end with a sc in the last sc.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until it’s the width you want.

Add fringe to your liking. Trim if needed.

If you are new to making fringe then check out this tutorial here.

Give scarf a gentle blocking if needed.

Rainbow Sherbet Coin Purse

2008-10-24T08:30:00.000-07:00

What to do with small amounts of your own handpsun yarn? You make a few coin pursed that's what. Enjoy.....

Materials
aran/heavy worsted handspun or similar weight yarn from your stash 40-50 yards max.
4.0 or 4.5mm hook - the goal is a dense fabric
1/2 inch or larger button [ I used 1/2" button but I plan to add a larger and bulkier button because my coin purse has opened in my bag.]
yarn needle to weave in ends
needle and thread to sew on button
finished size about - 2.5 x 3.25 inches when flap is buttoned

R1: Ch13 and sc across, ch1 turn
R2: sc across, ch1 turn
Repeat R2 until it's 5.25 inches give or take long. Then do the button hole row.
Button Hole Row: sc, hdc, 3dc, 2tc, 3dc, hdc, sc, fasten off. The button fits between the two treble crochet stitches.
Sc the sides together with the front of the coin purse facing you.

Finishing touches. Crab stitch edging.
With the front of the coin purse facing you join at the left hand corner , ch1 and begin crab stitch over the inside top, down the right side and the bottom.
Then with the back of the coin purse facing you(would be on the front if the coin purse is buttoned closed) Join on the left where the coin flap begins, ch1, and begin crab stitch around. (On the coin purse on the right I did not do the crab stitch across the top of the inside.)

Weave in ends and sew on the button.

This pattern has not been tested so let me know if you have any problems you can email me or contact me on Ravelry.

Stuffed Animal CAL - Week Three

2006-10-25T09:11:00.000-07:00

We will complete the tail, assemble the animal, and make the face

Feel free to use this pattern and link to this page for a crochet along for your group. Please note all copyright info.

It’s a cat, it’s a dog, bear or rabbit. Oh My!
Updated Sept 2006
By Fiberstar – Samantha M. Stopple
Copyright 2006 - For your personal use or charity work only please do not make to sell for your profit unless you contact me first. Thanks

Notes:
DO NOT join rounds unless otherwise noted. Use a scrap of yarn or stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.

Leave a 10” tail for all body parts. You will use this when you sew the animal together.

You don’t need to weave in your beginning ends just stuff them into the body parts.

A great place to find tips to make animals is here:
http://www.crochetme.com/amigurumi

Tail (make one):
Note: tails do not need stuffing

Cat/Dog:
R1: magic ring, ch1, 5sc in ring
R2: 2sc in the first sc, sc in the nxt 4sc (6sc)
R3-10(more or less to your liking): sc around

Slip st in the nxt sc fasten off and leave 10” tail

Dog/puppy: example use 10 rounds
Cat: Grey Cat example used 13 rounds

Bear:
R1-2 same as cat/dog tail
R3-5: sc around

Slip st in the nxt sc fasten off and leave 10” tail

Rabbit:

Simple:
R1: magic ring, ch1, 5sc in ring, pulled closed
R2: 2 sc in the first sc, sc in the nxt 2 sc. 2sc in the nxt sc, sc in the nxt sc (7sc)
R3: 2sc in the first sc, sc in the nxt 2sc, 2sc in the nxt sc, sc in the nxt 3 sc (9sc)
R4: 1 sc dec, sc in the nxt 2 sc, 1sc dec, sc in the nxt 3sc (7sc), slipstitch in the nxt stitch, fasten off and leave a 10” tail

Bushy tail (like making a pom-pom):

Cut a piece of cardboard down to piece cardboard or card stock 2’x2’ then fold it in half.

Cut a piece of string (a similar color to your yarn) approximately 10 inches long. Lay that along the inside of the fold.

Then wrap the yarn around the folded cardboard/stock at least 30 or more times. (Do not wrap too tightly or you will end up with a grossly uneven pompom). The more you wrap the bushier the tail will be.

When you have reached what you think is sufficient. Take the string inside the fold of the cardboard and move it up towards the opening. Pulling very tightly tie two knots. Cut through all of the wrapped yarn along the fold. You may need to trim the tail now to round it out a bit.

You can find other ways to make pom -poms here and here

Assembling the doll:

There really is no right or wrong way to put the animals together. Hopefully I have provided you a few ways to do it and you can improvise from here.

Note: All ends and sewing tails get pulled though the body then cut off

See the website here if you have any questions about assembling the animals.

Click on the thumbnail pictures to help put the animals together.

Attach head to body using whipstitch. You can add a bit more stuffing here before you close up if needed. . You can use either the tail from the head or the tail from the body to attach the body and head together. Stuff the tail inside the head or body. Sometimes I go around twice to make sure it’s on secularly.

Arms:
Fold arms closed then attach to body about I place it about 2-3 rows down from the neck (or where it look best to you) then whipstitch around.

Legs:
Pin legs to body as shown in picture(s) in a standing or sitting position and whipstitch in place. I do not fold the legs closed before I sew them to the body I keep them open. You can fold the legs before you sew them on. It does makes it easier for the animal /doll to sit.

Ears:
Pin in place to see the best placement then whipstitch to the head.

When attaching the ears I like to curve the ears a bit to make it look kind of natural. I make the curve more pronounced when sewing the rabbit ears to the head. (Almost folding it at the base of the ear lengthwise.)

If you are folding the rabbit ears down then fold it so it looks good to you then sew it in place. (See Lavender Rabbit picture)

Adding ears for the dog you might sew them so they hang down and it will look less like a bear. (See Purple Puppy picture)

Muzzle: sew in place with a whipstitch where it looks best or see pictures for placement.

Tail:

Bear: fold the tail then whipstitch around

Cat/dog/rabbit: whipstitch w/o folding

Making the face:

TIPS: I use a fairly fine embroidery needle or even a sewing needle and 2-3 strands of floss. A sharp needle makes it easier to work through the yarn and get better detail.

Cat/Rabbit:
Embroider eyes, nose, mouth, whiskers, and claws (optional) as shown on cat/rabbit.

Dog/Bear:
If you are not using a crocheted muzzle sew on a felt muzzle with a diameter of 1.5 inches using either a whipstitch or running stitch with embroidery floss.

Embroider eyes, nose, mouth, and claws (optional)

Stuffed Animal CAL - Week Two

2006-10-18T09:10:00.000-07:00

We will be working on the arms, legs and ears

Feel free to use this pattern and link to this page for a crochet along for your group. Please note all copyright info.

It’s a cat, it’s a dog, bear or rabbit. Oh My!
Updated Sept 2006
By Fiberstar – Samantha M. Stopple
Copyright 2006 - For your personal use or charity work only please do not make to sell for your profit unless you contact me first. Thanks

Notes:
DO NOT join rounds unless otherwise noted. Use a scrap of yarn or stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.

Leave a 10” tail for all body parts. You will use this when you sew the animal together.

You don’t need to weave in your beginning ends just stuff them into the body parts.

A great place to find tips to make animals is here

Fill with stuffing so it’s full enough that you get a fairly firm shape but not too full that you are over stretching the fabric.

Arms and Legs (make 2):

R1: Magic ring, ch1, 6sc in ring, pull ring closed (6sc)

Note: Mark the beginning of each round before you start this will help you know the beginning/end of each new round

R2: 2sc in each sc around (12sc)
R3: (1sc in 5sc, 2c nxt sc) twice (14sc)
R4-6: sc in each sc around (14sc)
R7: (1 sc in 5sc, 1 sc dec) twice (12 sc)

R8-16: 1 sc in each sc around, slip st in the next stitch (12sc)

Fasten off leaving a 10” tail

Fill with stuffing

Legs (make 2):

Note: Mark the beginning of each round before you start this will help you know the beginning/end of each new round

Repeat Arm pattern R1-R7
R8-16: sc in each sc around

Fasten off leaving a 10” tail

Fill with stuffing

Ears (make 2):
Note: ears are not filled with stuffing

Cat Ears:
R1: Magic ring, ch1, 6sc in ring (6sc)

Note: Mark the beginning of each round before you start this will help you know the beginning/end of each new round

R2: (2sc in the nxt sc, 1 sc in nxt) 3 times (9sc)
R3: 2sc in the first sc, sc in the nxt 3sc, 2 sc in nxt sc, sc in the nxt 4sc (11sc)
R4: 2sc in the nxt sc, sc in the nxt 4sc, 2 sc in the nxt sc, sc in the nxt 5sc (13sc)
R5: 2sc in the nxt sc, sc in the nxt 5sc, 2 sc in the nxt sc, sc in the nxt 6 sc (15sc)
R6: sc around, slip st in the nxt st (15sc)

Fasten off and leave a 10” tail.

Rabbit Ears:
R1-4: repeat as for cat ears
R5-10: sc in sc around

Stop here if you are making upright rabbit ears

R11-15: sc around if you would like floppy/folded ears, slip st in the next st.

Fasten off and leave a 10” tail

Bear/Dog Ears:
R1: Magic ring, ch1, 6sc in ring, pull ring closed (6sc)
R2: 2sc in each sc around (12sc)
R3: (1sc in the nxt 5sc, 2c in the nxt sc) twice (14sc)
R4: (1sc in the nxt 6sc, 2 sc in the nxt sc) twice (16sc)
R5-6: sc around (16sc), slip st in the nxt st

Fasten off and leave a 10” tail

Muzzle (make one) (optional because you can use felt)
A muzzle helps give the look of a dog or bear
You can add a little stuffing under it as well.

R1: Magic ring, ch1, 5sc in ring, pull ring closed (5sc)
R2: 2sc in each sc around, (10 sc)
R3: (2sc in nxt sc, 1sc) repeat 5 times (15 sc) slip st in the nxt st

Fasten off and leave a 10” tail

If you use a felt muzzle make a circle of felt with a diameter of 1-1/2 Inches now or when you are ready to embroider the face.

Set aside for Week Three

Stuffed Animal - CAL - Week One

2006-10-01T09:09:00.000-07:00

We will make the head and body.

Feel free to use this pattern and link to this page for a crochet along for your group. Please note all copyright info.

It’s a cat, it’s a dog, bear or rabbit. Oh My!
Updated Sept 2006
By Fiberstar – Samantha M. Stopple
Copyright 2006 - For your personal use or charity work only please do not make to sell for your profit unless you contact me first. Thanks

Materials:
3-4oz of Worsted weight yarn in color(s) of your choice. Red Heart is a good choice.
F hook or hook that gets you a dense crocheted fabric (some were able to use a G hook)
Embroidery floss for eyes, nose, mouth, etc.
Embroidery needle or sewing needle a sharp one is best
Pins
Larger eyed needed to sew body parts together
Poly Fiber Fill
Stitch marker (yarn scarps work great for this!)
Felt (optional)
Animals/doll eyes (optional)

Finished doll size using ww yarn is approximately 9.5 inches long not including ears.

See more finished dolls here.

Notes:
DO NOT join rounds unless otherwise noted. Use a scrap of yarn or stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.

Leave a 10” tail for all body parts. You will use this when you sew the animal together.

You don’t need to weave in your beginning ends just stuff them into the body parts.

A great place to find tips to make animals is here

Fill with stuffing so it’s full enough that you get a fairly firm shape but not too full that you are over stretching the fabric.

Gauge:
When making animals or amigurumi, I like a dense crocheted fabric so gauge is not necessarily important. Go for as dense a fabric you can without going to a hook size that makes crocheting difficult. I am including my gauge so you have a place to start when choosing your hook size.

5sc in 1”
5rows in 1”

Try for something close to this gauge or a crocheted fabric that seems solid/dense.

Start doing the head, complete 6-7 rows then check your guage. If it seem off go to a smaller or larger hook.

Stitches/Skills: slip stitch, sc, sc dec, and magic adjustable ring (magic ring)

Magic adjustable ring instructions can be found here

Head:

Note: Magic ring is the same as the magic adjustable ring and will be referred to as such throughout

R1: Magic ring, Ch1, 8sc in the ring, pull ring closed (8sc)

Note: Mark the beginning of each round before you start this will help you know the beginning/end of each new round

R2: (2sc in each sc) repeat around (16sc)
R3: (1sc in the nxt sc, 2sc in the nxt sc) repeat around (24 sc)
R4: (1 sc in the nxt 2sc, 2sc in the nxt sc) repeat around (32sc)
R5-13: 1sc in each sc around (32sc)
R14: (1 sc in nxt 2sc, 1 sc dec) repeat around (24sc)

Note:
If you are going to use doll/animals eyes you will need to attach them now. If you are using embroidery floss you can wait until after the animal is assembled. Place the eyes about 1” a part on the 6th or 7th row

R15: sc dec around (12sc)

Add stuffing

R16: (1sc in nxt 2sc, 1sc dec) around (9sc), slip st into the next stitch
Fasten off leaving a 10-12” tail

Add more stuffing if needed

Body:

R1: Magic ring, ch1, 8sc in the ring, pull ring closed (8sc)

Note: Mark the beginning of each round before you start this will help you know the beginning/end of each new round

R2: (2sc in each sc) repeat around (16sc)
R3: (1sc in the nxt sc, 2sc in the nxt sc) repeat around (24 sc)
R4: (1 sc in the nxt 3sc, 2sc in the nxt sc) repeat around (30sc)
R5 –16: 1 sc in each sc around (30sc)
R17: (1sc, 1 sc dec) repeat around (20sc)

R18: sc dec around (10sc)

Add stuffing

R19: (1 sc in next 3sc, 1 sc dec) repeat around, slip st into the next stitch (8sc)

Fasten off leaving a 10” tail

Add more stuffing if needed

Set these aside and next week we will start on the arms, legs and more.

It’s a cat, it’s a dog, bear or rabbit. Oh My!

2006-09-28T09:08:00.000-07:00

This is the one I made for my dd which I use Caron Simply Soft and form the original cat pattern. She did all the embroidery for the face. I didn't do much better when I tried.

This is was also made from the orignal cat pattern. I made this one for my son which I used Red Heart. I think this turned out much better because you can't see the stuffing.

Purple Puppy is the first one I made using the new and improved pattern.

Pink Rabbit - in progress:

I might make this rabbit w/o the animals eyes.

The following are the animals made by my testers. They all did a fabulous job. I love their creativity!

Gray Kitty

Kitty Kat

Lavendar Rabbit

See more pics of the finished dolls here.

It’s a cat, it’s a dog, bear or rabbit. Oh My!
Updated Sept 2006
By Fiberstar – Samantha M. Stopple
Copyright 2006 - For your personal use or charity work only please do not make to sell for your profit unless you contact me first. Thanks

Materials:
3-4oz of Worsted weight yarn in color(s) of your choice. Red Heart is a good choice.
F hooks or hook that gets you a dense crocheted fabric (some were able to use a G hook)
Embroidery floss for eyes, nose, mouth, etc.
Embroidery needle or sewing needle a sharp one is best
Pins
Larger eyed needed to sew body parts together
Poly Fiber Fill
Stitch marker (yarn scarps work great for this!)
Felt (optional)
Animals/doll eyes (optional)
Finished doll size using ww yarn is approximately 9.5 inches long not including ears.

See finished dolls here.

Notes:
DO NOT join rounds unless otherwise noted. Use a scrap of yarn or stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.

Leave a 10” tail for all body parts. You will use this when you sew the animal together.

You don’t need to weave in your beginning ends just stuff them into the body parts.

A great place to find tips to make animals is here

Fill with stuffing so it’s full enough that you get a fairly firm shape but not too full that you are over stretching the fabric.

Gauge:
When making animals or amigurumi, I like a dense crocheted fabric so gauge is not necessarily important. Go for as dense a fabric you can without going to a hook size that makes crocheting difficult. I am including my gauge so you have a place to start when choosing your hook size.

5sc in 1”
5rows in 1”

Try for something close to this gauge or a crocheted fabric that seems solid/dense.

Start doing the head, complete 6-7 rows then check your guage. If it seem off go to a smaller or larger hook.

Stitches/Skills: slip stitch, sc, sc dec, and magic adjustable ring (magic ring)

Magic adjustable ring instructions can be found here

Head:

Note: Magic ring is the same as the magic adjustable ring and will be referred to as such throughout

R1: Magic ring, Ch1, 8sc in the ring, pull ring closed (8sc)

Note: Mark the beginning of each round before you start this will help you know the beginning/end of each new round

R2: (2sc in each sc) repeat around (16sc)
R3: (1sc in the nxt sc, 2sc in the nxt sc) repeat around (24 sc)
R4: (1 sc in the nxt 2sc, 2sc in the nxt sc) repeat around (32sc)
R5-13: 1sc in each sc around (32sc)
R14: (1 sc in nxt 2sc, 1 sc dec) repeat around (24sc)

Note:
If you are going to use doll/animals eyes you will need to attach them now. If you are using embroidery floss you can wait until after the animal is assembled. Place the eyes about 1” a part on the 6th or 7th row

R15: sc dec around (12sc)

Add stuffing

R16: (1sc in nxt 2sc, 1sc dec) around (9sc), slip st into the next stitch
Fasten off leaving a 10-12” tail

Add more stuffing if needed

Body:

R1: Magic ring, ch1, 8sc in the ring, pull ring closed (8sc)

Note: Mark the beginning of each round before you start this will help you know the beginning/end of each new round

R2: (2sc in each sc) repeat around (16sc)
R3: (1sc in the nxt sc, 2sc in the nxt sc) repeat around (24 sc)
R4: (1 sc in the nxt 3sc, 2sc in the nxt sc) repeat around (30sc)
R5 –16: 1 sc in each sc around (30sc)
R17: (1sc, 1 sc dec) repeat around (20sc)

R18: sc dec around (10sc)

Add stuffing

R19: (1 sc in next 3sc, 1 sc dec) repeat around, slip st into the next stitch (8sc)

Fasten off leaving a 10” tail

Add more stuffing if needed

Arms and Legs (make 2):

R1: Magic ring, ch1, 6sc in ring, pull ring closed (6sc)

Note: Mark the beginning of each round before you start this will help you know the beginning/end of each new round

R2: 2sc in each sc around (12sc)
R3: (1sc in 5sc, 2c nxt sc) twice (14sc)
R4-6: sc in each sc around (14sc)
R7: (1 sc in 5sc, 1 sc dec) twice (12 sc)

R8-16: 1 sc in each sc around, slip st in the next stitch (12sc)

Fasten off leaving a 10” tail

Fill with stuffing

Legs (make 2):

Note: Mark the beginning of each round before you start this will help you know the beginning/end of each new round

Repeat Arm pattern R1-R7
R8-16: sc in each sc around

Fasten off leaving a 10” tail

Fill with stuffing

Ears (make 2):
Note: ears are not filled with stuffing

Cat Ears:
R1: Magic ring, ch1, 6sc in ring (6sc)

Note: Mark the beginning of each round before you start this will help you know the beginning/end of each new round

R2: (2sc in the nxt sc, 1 sc in nxt) 3 times (9sc)
R3: 2sc in the first sc, sc in the nxt 3sc, 2 sc in nxt sc, sc in the nxt 4sc (11sc)
R4: 2sc in the nxt sc, sc in the nxt 4sc, 2 sc in the nxt sc, sc in the nxt 5sc (13sc)
R5: 2sc in the nxt sc, sc in the nxt 5sc, 2 sc in the nxt sc, sc in the nxt 6 sc (15sc)
R6: sc around, slip st in the nxt st (15sc)

Fasten off and leave a 10” tail.

Rabbit Ears:
R1-4: repeat as for cat ears
R5-10: sc in sc around

Stop here if you are making upright rabbit ears

R11-15: sc around if you would like floppy/folded ears, slip st in the next st.

Fasten off and leave a 10” tail

Bear/Dog Ears:
R1: Magic ring, ch1, 6sc in ring, pull ring closed (6sc)
R2: 2sc in each sc around (12sc)
R3: (1sc in the nxt 5sc, 2c in the nxt sc) twice (14sc)
R4: (1sc in the nxt 6sc, 2 sc in the nxt sc) twice (16sc)
R5-6: sc around (16sc), slip st in the nxt st

Fasten off and leave a 10” tail

Muzzle (make one) (optional because you can use felt)
A muzzle helps give the look of a dog or bear
You can add a little stuffing under it as well.

R1: Magic ring, ch1, 5sc in ring, pull ring closed (5sc)
R2: 2sc in each sc around, (10 sc)
R3: (2sc in nxt sc, 1sc) repeat 5 times (15 sc) slip st in the nxt st

Fasten off and leave a 10” tail

If you use a felt muzzle make a circle of felt with a diameter of 1-1/2 Inches now or when you are ready to embroider the face.

[Week 4 –tail, assemble doll and add facial features]

Tail (make one):

Cat/Dog:
R1: magic ring, ch1, 5sc in ring
R2: 2sc in the first sc, sc in the nxt 4sc (6sc)
R3-10(more or less to your liking): sc around

Slip st in the nxt sc fasten off and leave 10” tail

Dog/puppy: example use 10 rounds
Cat: Grey Cat example used 13 rounds

Bear:
R1-2 same as cat/dog tail
R3-5: sc around

Slip st in the nxt sc fasten off and leave 10” tail

Rabbit:

Simple tail:
R1: magic ring, ch1, 5sc in ring, pulled closed
R2: 2 sc in the first sc, sc in the nxt 2 sc. 2sc in the nxt sc, sc in the nxt sc (7sc)
R3: 2sc in the first sc, sc in the nxt 2sc, 2sc in the nxt sc, sc in the nxt 3 sc (9sc)
R4: 1 sc dec, sc in the nxt 2 sc, 1sc dec, sc in the nxt 3sc (7sc), slipstitch in the nxt stitch, fasten off and leave a 10” tail

Bushy tail (like making a pom-pom):

Cut a piece of cardboard down to piece cardboard or card stock 2’x2’ then fold it in half.

Cut a piece of string (a similar color to your yarn) approximately 10 inches long. Lay that along the inside of the fold.

Then wrap the yarn around the folded cardboard/stock at least 30 or more times. (Do not wrap too tightly or you will end up with a grossly uneven pompom). The more you wrap the bushier the tail will be.

When you have reached what you think is sufficient. Take the string inside the fold of the cardboard and move it up towards the opening. Pulling very tightly tie two knots. Cut through all of the wrapped yarn along the fold. You may need to trim the tail now to round it out a bit.

Other ways to make a pom-pom/bushy tail: here and here

Assembling the doll:

There really is no right or wrong way to put the animals together. Hopefully I will help you find a few ways to do it and you can improvise from here.

Note: all ends sewing tails get pulled though the body and then cut off

See the website here if you have any questions about assembling the animals.

See pictures of the finished animals here for help when putting the body together.

Attach head to body using whipstitch. You can add a bit more stuffing here before you close up if needed. . You can use either the tail from the head or the tail from the body to attach the body and head together. Stuff the tail inside the head or body. Sometimes I go around twice to make sure it’s on secularly.

Arms:
Fold arms closed then attach to body about I place it about 2-3 rows down from the neck (or where it look best to you) then whipstitch around.

Legs:
Pin legs to body as shown in picture(s) in a standing or sitting position and whipstitch in place. I do not fold the legs closed before I sew them to the body I keep them open. You can fold the legs before you sew them on. It does makes it easier for the animal /doll to sit.

Ears:
Pin in place to see the best placement then whipstitch to the head.

When attaching the ears I like to curve the ears a bit to make it look kind of natural. I make the curve more pronounced when sewing the rabbit ears to the head. (Almost folding it at the base of the ear lengthwise.)

If you are folding the rabbit ears down then fold it so it looks good to you then sew it in place. (See Lavender Rabbit picture)

Adding ears for the dog you might sew them so they hang down and it will look less like a bear. (See Purple Puppy picture)

Muzzle: sew in place with a whipstitch where it looks best or see pictures for placement.

Tail:
Bear: fold the tail then whipstitch around

Cat/dog/rabbit: whipstitch w/o folding

Making the face:

See finished animals here for ideas and also look here for more ideas.

TIPS: I use a fairly fine embroidery needle or even a sewing needle and 2-3 strands of floss. A sharp needle makes it easier to work through the yarn and get better detail. Embroder as suggested below or to your preferences. Be creative!

Cat/Rabbit:
Embroider eyes, nose, mouth, whiskers, and claws (optional) as shown on cat/rabbit.

Dog/Bear:
If you are not using a crocheted muzzle sew on a felt muzzle with a diameter of 1.5 inches using either a whipstitch or running stitch with embroidery floss.

Embroider eyes, nose, mouth, and claws (optional)

Lacey the not so Lacey Headband

2006-04-14T09:13:00.000-07:00

Original Design by Fiber Star – Samantha Stopple
http://ibrakeforyarnpatterns.blogspot.com
Copyright March 2006/October 2007
You are free to use this designs for your personal use. You may not sell this item. When you print off these patterns please include this copyright information.

I love the look of Bruge Lace, named after the town in Belgium famous for this lace style. I'm enamored by it’s intricate simplicity. I stomp my feet and cry because I am not patient enough to crochet with thread and what do I need with doilies anyway? Then it donned on me I have long hair! It gets hot here in Kansas. I will make a headband. I’ve been itching to try out some more things with Microspun yarn too. So Lacey the not to Lacey Headband was born.

Lacey the not so Lacey Headband

Original Design by Fiber Star – Samantha Stopple
http://ibrakeforyarnpatterns.blogspot.com
Copyright March 2006
You are free to use this design for your personal use. When you print off these patterns please include this copyright information.

Materials:
You really could use any weight yarn you want all you need to do is add more or less rows to fit. Use the hook size recommended on the ballband as a place to start.

The headband above was made with the following materials.
H hook
Lion Brand Microspun Yarn
Needle to weave in ends

Notes:
Make one band then attach the second band as you go. I have provided both a written and a symbol diagram (see below.)

Begin first band:

Ch11
R1: skip 6 chains, dc in the 7th ch from the hook, then dc across (5 dc)
R2: Ch6. Turn. Dc in ea dc across

Repeat R2: 11 times more (small head) or 13 more times (medium /large head) or the size you think is best. Do not fasten off.

*You need to end on an odd numbered row. *

Beginning second band:

Ch15. Turn.

R1: Dc in the 7th ch from the hook, 4 more dc across

R2: Ch3, slip st over ch6 of the competed band, ch2, turn; dc in ea dc across (5 dc)

R3: Ch6. Turn; dc in ea dc (5dc )

Repeat R2 and R3 to mirror the first band. After the last R3 Ch4, sl st on top of the dc in the other band. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Finishing Option A:
On each end do the following:

Join yarn at the top a dc at the beginning of a row and sc in same stitch, sc in ea dc, 4 sc in the ch4 space, sc in ea dc (14 sc). Dec at the beg of each row by skipping the first sc (do not ch1) until you get 3sc across.

Do not fasten off

Continue with tie options listed below: 3sc, chain tie or knitted I-cord.

Finishing Option B:

On each end do the following:

R1 Join yarn at the top a dc at the beginning of a row and sc in same stitch, sc in ea dc, 4 sc in the ch4 space, sc in ea dc, ch1, turn. (14 sc)

R2: sc in the first sc, (skip one sc, ch3, sc in the nxt sc) 3x, sc in the nxt sc, (skip one sc, ch3, sc in the nxt sc) 3x, ch1, turn. (6 ch3s)

R3: sc in the first ch3 space, (ch3, sc in the nxt ch3 space)5x, ch1, turn. (5 ch3s)

R4: sc in the first ch3 space, (ch3, sc in the nxt ch3 space)4x, ch1, turn. (4 ch3s)

R5: sc in the first ch3 space, (ch3, sc in the nxt ch3 space)3x, ch1, turn. (3 ch3s)

R6: sc in the first ch3 space, (ch3, sc in the nxt ch3 space)2x, ch1, turn. (2 ch3s)

R7: sc in the first ch3 space, ch3, sc in the nxt ch3 space, do not turn, keep that loop on the hook. (1 ch3)

Do not fasten off

Continue with tie options listed below: 3sc, chain tie or knitted I-cord.

Begin I-cord Tie:

With Option A
Still using the crochet hook CO 3 sts
Insert hook under the first sc, yo, and pull through the loop on the hook,
Insert hook under the nxt sc, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull the second loop on the hook, now you have 2 loops on the hook, repeat one more time for 3 loops
With Option B
Still using the crochet hook CO 3 sts
Insert hook under the ch3, yo, and pull through the loop on the hook,
Insert hook under the ch3, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull the second loop on the hook, now you have 2 loops on the hook, repeat one more time for 3 loops.

Now transfer the CO sts to your dpns

Start I-cord, knit to 10 inches or longer then Cast off. Weave in the ends.

Chain Tie:
When you have reached the last ch3 loop or 3sc then ch3 turn then dc in the last sc, then chain for the length desired. Weave in ends, into the bumps of the chain. With this method you may need to sew the woven end in place with a little bit of matching thread.

3sc Chain Tie:

With Option A
Sc across, ch1 turn - Repeat until 10inches or length desired.
On last row do not ch1

With Option B
Ch1, turn, 3sc into the last ch3 loop, Ch1 turn
sc across, ch1 turn - Repeat until 10inches or length desired.
On last row do not ch1

Fasten off and weave in ends.

This headband uses Option B with a knitted I-cord, size 3 crochet cotton, Size C hook

A symbol diagram which might make things a bit clearer:

Fancy Star Flower

2006-03-27T08:58:00.000-08:00

Original Design by Fiber Star – Samantha Stopple

Copyright March 2006 - You are free to use these designs for your personal use. You may sell items you make with these. You may NOT hire someone to make these to sell. If you do make these please make note that you used my design. When you print off these patterns please include this copyright information.

For flowers I suggest the following:
ww yarn of you choice in 2-3 colors
I liked to use a texture yarn to jazz up the flower
F hook
needle to weave in ends

I used the following yarns to make my flowers:
Plymouth Encore
Lion Brand Micro-fiber
Bernat and Moda Dea fancy yarns
Caron Simply Soft

NOTES:
Picot= ch3, sl st in top of dc
Join: Where ever it says join you can sl st to join or you can do an invisible join
Finishing off: Weave in ends or leave some ends for sewing on to another project
You can work the flowers in a single color or change colors at each round.

Round1:
Ch8 sl st join to form ring; Ch1
15 sc in ring sl st to join

Round2:
Ch8 Skip 2sc then sc in nxt st around, sl st to join, ch1

[(1sc, 1hd, 3dc, ch1,3dc, 1hdc, 1sc. ) all in the Ch 3 loop, ch1] repeat for each chain loop

Here's the first step which is the same as the basic flower .

If changing colors here: Join in any ch1 loop

*sl st into the back loop sts across then (1 dc, 1dc & picot, 1dc) into the ch1 space, sl st across previous sts* then repeat from *to* then join

Here's the finished flower.

I used a Mod Dea Fancy purple for the center, Caron Simply Soft for the first petal color a Caron Siply Soft Purple for the second color. I did not use a center effect option for the flower.

Center effect for the flower:
To create that pollen center effect in the flower, I suggest using a color with some texture to mimic the textured look many flowers have from stamens and pollen or a different color.

A: sc in each sc of the ring
B: sc ch1 around
C: sc ch2 around

The Basic Star Flower

2006-03-26T08:59:00.000-08:00

Original Design by Fiber Star – Samantha Stopple

Copyright March 2006 : You are free to use these designs for your personal use. You may sell items you make with these. You may NOT hire someone to make these to sell. If you do make these please make note that you used my design. When you print off these patterns please include this copyright information.

For all the flowers I suggest the following:
ww yarn of you choice in 2-3 colors
I liked to use a texture yarn to jazz up the flower
F hook
needle to weave in ends

I used the following yarns to make my flowers:
Plymouth Encore
Lion Brand Micro-fiber
Bernat and Moda Dea fancy yarns
Caron Simply Soft

Notes:
Picot: Picot= ch3, sl st in top of dc
Join: Where ever it says join you can sl st to join or you can do an invisible join
Finishing off: Weave in ends or leave some ends for sewing on to another project

BASIC Star Flower – 4 Petals
You can work the flower in a single color or change colors at each round.

Round 1:
Ch6, sl st to for ring; Ch1
12 sc in the ring, sl st to join

Round 2:
Ch8, skip 2sc, sc in the nxt st around for four petals sl st to join in the beg of the first Ch8; In ch8 do the following: (2 sc, 1hdc, 2dc, 1dc & picot, 2dc, 1hdc, 2sc)
join

Flower before adding the center option and after adding the center option.

I used a reddish Plymouth Encore for the main color and a fancy yarn, which is either a Bernat or Mod Dea to complete the option C center to make the small flower.

For a slightly larger flower:
Ch10; in each Ch10 do the following: (3sc, 1hdc, 2dc, 1dc &picot, 2dc, 1hdc, 3sc) join

I used purple Plymouth Encore for the main color and the same fancy yarn as above using option B for the center to make a slightly larger flower.

BASIC Star Flower – 5 Petals
You can work the flower in a single color or change color at each round.

Round 1:
Ch8 , join, ring; Ch1
15 sc in the ring, sl st to form a ring

Round 2:
Ch8, skip 2sc, sc in the nxt st around for four petals sl st to join in the beg of the first Ch8
(2 sc, 1hdc, 2dc, 1dc & picot, 2dc, 1hdc, 2sc) join

The 5 petal start flower before and after adding the center option.

I use Lionbrand Micro Spun in purple for the main color and a Mod Dea fancy purple yarn using option A for the center.

For a larger petal/flower:
Ch10 instead of Ch8 then do the following in each ch10: (3sc, 2hdc, 2dc, 1dc &picot, 2dc, 2hdc, 3sc) join

Center effect for both the 4 and 5 petal flower:
To create that pollen center effect in the flower, I suggest using a color with some texture to mimic the textured look many flowers have from the stamens/pollen or use a different color.

A: sc in each sc of the ring
B: sc ch1 around
C: sc ch2 around
Maybe introduce a picot stitch too! Or if you do a larger flower maybe you could repeat the smaller flower instructions from Round 2 around for a three-dimensional affect.

The Basic Flower

2006-03-25T09:00:00.000-08:00

Original Design by Fiber Star – Samantha Stopple

Copyright March 2006 : You are free to use these designs for your personal use. You may sell items you make with these. You man NOT hire someone to make these to sell. If you do make these please make note that you used my design. When you print off these patterns please include this copyright information.

For all the flowers I suggest the following:
ww yarn of you choice in 2-3 colors
I liked to use a texture yarn to jazz up the flower
F hook
needle to weave in ends

I used the following yarns to make my flowers:
Plymouth Encore
Lion Brand Micro-fiber
Bernat and Mod Dea fancy yarns
Caron Simply Soft

NOTES:
Joining: Where ever it says join you can sl st to join or you can do an invisible join
Finishing off: Weave in ends or colors if you want.
You do need to know how to add new colors.

The Basic Flower:
You can work the flowers in a single color or change colors at each round.

Round 1:
Ch8 sl st join to make ring; Ch1
15 sc in ring, sl st to join

Round 2 options:
Small flower:
Ch6 skip 2st sc in next st around to make 5 petals (5 – 6ch loops) sl st to join;ch1; [(1sc, 1hdc, 2dc,ch1,2dc, 1hdc, 1sc) in the loop, ch1] around for each petal; join, fasten off

Medium flower:
Ch8 skip 2st sc in next st around to make 5 petals (5 – 8ch loops), sl st to join; ch1; [(2sc, 1hdc, 3dc,ch1, 3dc, 1hdc, 2sc ), ch1]; join

Here's what a medium flower looks like changing colors. I used Caron Simply Soft Orchid for the petals and a Mod Dea fancy purple for the center.

Large flower:
Ch10, skip 2sc, sc in the nxt st around for four petals sl st to join in the beg of the first Ch10; (3sc, 2hdc, 2dc, 1 tr, 2dc, 2hdc, 3sc) join

Round 3:
You can add more color:
Create a two-colored flower by doing an additional row around the petals in a different color:

Here’s an idea for the medium flower:
[(3sc, 2dc,3tr(in ch1), 2dc, 3sc) sc around ch1] for each petal, join, fasten off

Here's a flower I made adding an additonal row of color:

Using Caron Simply Soft Orchid to make Rounds 1& 2 then I used Mod Dea purple fancy yarn for round 3 to make a two colored flower I added a center effect using Mod Dea again doing option B.

Center effect for the flower:
To create that pollen center effect in the flower, I suggest using a color with some texture to mimic the textured look many flowers have from stamens/pollen or a different color.

A: sc in each sc of the ring
B: sc ch1 around
C: sc ch2 around
Maybe introduce a picot stitch too! Or if you do a larger flower maybe you could repeat the smaller flower instructions from Round 2 around for a three-dimensional affect.

Flower Dolls

2006-03-22T09:04:00.000-08:00

Flower Dolls - Amigurumi Style
Original Design by Fiber Star – Samantha Stopple - http://sammimagfiberstar.blogspot.com/
Copyright March 2006

You are free to use these designs for your personal use. You may sell items you make with these locally but NOT online. If you do make these please make note that you used my design. When you print off the design to have a copy for your peronal use make sure it includes this disclamer and my name.

These patterns are a work in progress so check back later for any changes.

Materials:
WW yarn - I used Red Heart super saver and TLC Essentials
Embroidery thread for making facial features Poly Fiberfill (and possibly plastic beads filling to make them stand up or marbles). I didn’t use them for that because I wanted them to be safe for babies.
F hook
Needle to whip stitch pieces together
Embroidery needle for making facial features

Notes: Worked in rounds w/o joining for most of the body parts
Leave long tails for joining
Use a piece if yarn or some kind of stitch marker to mark ends of rounds.

Find out more about using a magic ring here
And more about amigurumi construction here

Flower A: This is the one with a purple flower hat, purple ruffle, leaves for arms and legs. I plan on getting a photo up soon. I can't find the doll it's become a popular toy in our house.

Head:
Magic ring
R1: 6 sc in ring (mark beg, if next row here) - 6
R2: 2sc in each sc - 12
R3: 2sc in 1 sc, 1sc repeat to the beg. – 18
R4-6: sc around R7: dec, then 1sc around - Need to stuff here (maybe sooner)
R8: repeat R7

Skinny body/ Stem
Magic ring
R1: 7sc in ring
R2: sc, 2sc, around (10 sc?)
R3-9: sc around fasten off? (I’m pretty sure I did not decrease)

I may not make a skinny body when I make more.

Arms and legs are like leaves Arms - make 2
Ch8- sl st, 3sc, 2hdc, 3dc (in the last stitch), then on the other side 2hdc , 2sc, sl st, fasten off

Legs – make 2
Ch6 sl st 2sc, 2hdc, 5 dc (in last ch), 2hdc, 2sc, sl st, fasten off

Flower for head:
Magic ring 6sc in ring sl st to join
*(ch2, dc, ch3, sl st ) in one sc then sl st into the nxt sc* and repeat from *to* until finished last petal then fasten off. Leave tail to attach to top of the head.

Hat:
magic ring
R1: 7sc in ring - 7
R2: 2sc in ea sc - 14
?maybe one more row arounf all sc
then picot stitch around in each sc (14 picots)

I may make the the flower bigger in future dolls by using trs or dtrs.

Flower ruffle around neck:
*Ch8 sl st into the first ch, 2sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc* repeat from *to* 5 or more times to make it large enough to fit around the “neck" of the doll.

Whip stitch body parts together and embroider facial features on dolls if desired.

Flower B: This is the one with the green leave hat/hair and yellow ruffle

Head: same as for Flower A

The Stem / Body
Magic ring
R1: 7sc in ring – 7
R2: 2sc in sc around - 14
R3-8?9: sc around
R10: dec around – 7

Flower Ruffle:
*Ch10 st, 3sc, 3hdc, 2dc,* repeat 4-5 times to fit around the neck

The green leaf hat / hair:
magic ring
R1: 7sc in ring
R2: 2sc in each sc 14
R3-4: sc around
Then start a “leaf” look: repeat 6 times in 6sc across : *ch3 sl st in same sc* then sl st in the nxt sc* repeat from *to* Then in the remaining 8sc do the following: *ch4, sl st, 2sc, 1 hdc then sl st in the next st* repeat from *to*

Whip stitch body parts together and embroider facial features on dolls if desired.